Tolloy: Weissburgunder, Merlot, Gewurz

Had a chance to road test three of the Tolloy Wines from Alto Adige region, Northern Italy that Superquin are bringing in.

Probably the most interesting was the Weissburgunder (Pinot Bianco/Pinot Blanc NOT our new bestfriend, Pinot Grigio, beloved of ‘Ladies who Lunch’ if there are still any around now hubby’s bank shares have gone down the tube and the Ballsbridge tractor’s been repo’d). Quite a solid, chunky mouthfeel, surprising for this variety, with a nice lemony lift; a little bit of honey towards the back palate and something akin to smokey bacon – no, smoked cheese, in there. Maybe sounds weird, but it works. Spot on fruit/acid balance and good value for €10.99 (how any Brits reading this post will chuckle when they see that. Lucky buggers!)

The Gewurztraminer was quite smart and very Alsace-like. The crude star anis and clove nose you frequently get from cut-price Gewurz was not in evidence, just a hint of sharp spice before the lychees and allied things kicked in.

Less said about the Merlot the better. All burnt stewed fruit like a lot of Merlot away from its Bordeaux heartland. Every time I try one, Chile, South Africa, Oz I keep finding myself saying “Why…?”