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Archive for March, 2003

Oven Gloves

March 12, 2003 No Comments

Went walkabout at Catex after the awful misconceived lunch cooked by the northern guys. Apart from the terrible boudin of smoked cod and prawns there was ratatouille that wasn’t and rosti that wasn’t. Great piece of fillet steak, though, hung like John Babbacombe Lee. I searched in vain for “carpaccio of butter ” (thanks, Ben ...

Books & Equipment

Culinary Terms Explained Part 1

March 5, 2003 No Comments

EVER READ A WORD IN A RECIPE INSTRUCTION AND NOT KNOWN WHAT IT MEANT? RELAX, HERE’S THE LOWDOWN aioli The garlic-flavoured mayonnaise known as the ‘butter of Provence’ which is an essential accompaniment to many of the fish and vegetable dishes from that region. a l’anglaise Vegetables, meat and fish prepared in a plain, straightforward ...

Food

Culinary Terms Explained Part 2

March 5, 2003 No Comments

minestrone A substantial Italian vegetable soup. Again, a word debased by menu writers – we’ve even seen ‘minestrone of white, light and dark chocolate’, a total nonsense. mignonette pepper Very coarsely ground black pepper used in dishes such as steak au poivre. The simplest way to achieve the correct texture is to loosen the nut ...

Food
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NEW SOMMELIER TRAINING COURSE IN DUBLIN

  I’m all for training sommeliers. If a little learning means an end to woejous wine waiters resting the...

LAVENDER ICE CREAM AND A FAVOURITE DESSERT

Now the lavender in the garden is in bloom it’s time to make one of my favourites and certainly...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – Kinara Kitchen

Here I am again, back on the Cote de Ranelagh for the third time in six weeks. I make...

Elderflower ‘Champagne’ and other delights by LESLIE WILLIAMS

Elderflowers, those creamy sprays of pungent flowers visible in every park and hedgerow, are perhaps the most abundant and...

KITCHEN HERO? KITCHEN DEVIL? IRISH FOOD BLOGGER’S TV SPLITS OPINION

There’s a  fine old ding-dong going on over on the forum pages about Irish food blogger Donal Skehan’s ‘Kitchen...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – M&L/The Imperial/The Good World

This week has been Chinese all the way, kicking off with a trip to M&L, a down-home unpretentious restaurant...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – The Butcher’s Grill

In my days as editor and restaurant reviewer for Food & Wine Magazine I considered it a point of...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – Admiral

Fado, fado, there stood, hidden amid the barrows, butchers and barbers of Moore Street, a self-styled Russian ‘delicatessen’. The...

BOOK REVIEW ‘Turkey – Recipes and Tales from the Road’ by Leanne Kitchen

I’ve been anxious to get my hands on this book for some time now and the minute I slipped ...

BOOK REVIEW – Martin’s Fishy Fishy Cookbook by Martin Shanahan

Ah, fish, the great Irish paradox. We live on an island surrounded by fish but, by and large, we...