Of all the world’s cuisines I think Thai is the most difficult to comprehend for in no other is the gap between the mundane and the heavenly so narrow. Take a simple dish of noodles and, say, vegetables and pork. The composition is hardly complex, you would think that a half-decent cook, working with the ...
Restaurant ReviewsIn her introduction to The Second Classic Italian Cookbook Marcella Hazan, perhaps the most approachable, no-nonsense cookery writer ever, states emphatically that “There is no such thing as Italian haute cuisine because there are no high or low roads in Italian cooking. All roads lead to the home, la cucina casereccia – home cooking, which ...
Restaurant ReviewsAnother martyr to Dublin dining economics! I had a phone call from Karl Purdy yesterday to tell me that Bond, his innovative restaurant with low mark-ups on wine has closed. A shame, for I thought Karl and his colleagues deserved to succeed. I reviewed Bon for F&W last year. The food was enjoyable and, helped ...
Wine & DrinkI once went to dinner at a restaurant near Inverness with three directors of a distillery. The chef, in our honour, cooked a meal that featured whisky in all five courses! Indeed the main course featured two single malts, Macallan with the beef and Glenmorangie with the carrots. I begged the recipe for the latter ...
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