August commenced with the annual Veuve Clicquot petanque tournament, a charity event popular among restaurateurs, particularly those with a French connection. For the uninitiated, petanque is the game more commonly called (by English-speaking tourists at least) ‘boules’ whereby steel spheres are launched at a small wooden jack, known to devotees of the game as le ...
Wine & DrinkSeptember heralds the season not of mists and mellow fruitfulness but of blisters and blackened tongues as wine scribes hustle to accommodate a “double shifts and Sundays too” routine of tastings. A veritable host of Spaniards, French, Italians, Kiwis and Aussies flock to town to tout their wares. Argentina and Chile empty as winemakers head ...
Wine & DrinkWhoops! It’s that time of year again! Reviewing John and Sally’s Irish Food Guide for the umpteenth time is like trying to reinvent the wheel. Oh well, here goes. Overall, it’s much as before – a fizzy, frothy shandy of exuberant passion over essential hard information and a pretty comprehensive ‘who’s who’ take on the ...
Books & EquipmentSelf-effacing it ain’t. Assertive it is. If an autobiography should provide the reader with a deep insight into the character of the author this is a very good book indeed. I first got to know Tom in the late 80s when he and I were two of a mere nap hand of journalists in Ireland ...
Books & EquipmentApprox 36 peeled cooked prawns 1 tbsp vegetable oil. for the crepes 90g plain flour Pinch of salt 1 egg, plus 1 yolk 250 ml half milk/half water 1 tbsp oil, plus extra for frying for the ‘mustard custard’ 6 free range egg yolks 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp arrowroot 1 tbsp dijon mustard ...
RecipesPURE FUSION, A SORT OF “MADHUR JAFFREY MEETS MARCELLA HAZAN” Good on its own, or with the Supreme of Pheasant recipe cardamom and saffron risotto 4-5 scallions, finely chopped few strands saffron (optional – if you only have turmeric, don’t use) 240g arborio superfino, carnaroli or vialone nano rice 1 cup light stock Boiling water ...
Recipes1 pack shortcrust pastry, defrosted 4 egg yolks 1 cup vanilla sugar 1 cup plain flour 120g ground almonds 120g unsalted butter pinch of powdered cinnamon 1 small glass marsala, sherry or port 3 large figs 90g blueberries Serves 6 Preheat oven to 200C/400/F/gas 7. Cut rings and segments of the pastry and line individual ...
Recipes6 x suprèmes of pheasant or guinea fowl (3 birds), skin on – okay I know it isn’t technically a ‘suprème’ if the skin’s left on, but what else can you call it? Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 250 ml red wine Zest of half a lemon or sprig of lemon verbena 1 ...
RecipesFunny thing ‘atmosphere’. I’m not into it much; when it comes to dining out I’ll take ‘food’ every time – give me my beef rare, my salmon wild, my pasta al dente and I’ll give a place the thumbs up though the ambience is working overtime to mimic a funeral parlour on a foggy February ...
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