‘Ryanair doesn’t do cruise ships but if it did they’d be exactly like this’ was the thought that struck me as I plucked my fifth moule out of the great salt lake that represented the mariniere element of my starter. I glanced across the table to see how Sibella was faring with her toothpaste textured ...
Restaurant ReviewsRESTAURANT REVIEW I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. We don’t do service, do we? I can never figure out why. Surely we don’t consider it ‘beneath us’? Or do we? Maybe it’s the hangover of Ireland’s colonial past; we equate ‘service’ with ‘subservience’; is waiting tables or pouring pints a latter-day equivalent ...
Restaurant ReviewsThese bottles are one legacy of a boozy dinner party. The other is the happy memory! Domaine Langlois Chateau Saumur Vielles Vignes 2004 David Whelehan introduced me to this darling; hand-picked, carefully selected Chenin Blanc from 35 year old vines. Matured in oak casks. Sumptuous and supple, it’s a huge favourite of mine. O’Briens €17.99 ...
Tasting NotesCooked this for a dinner party in my own rather different take on ‘surf’n’turf’ – the other half was veal sweetbreads coated in sage flour, shallow fried in olive oil and coated at the last minute with a Madeira glaze. 2 large wings of ray, each cut in half 500 ml court bouillon (light stock ...
RecipesHow was it for you? And how long before we see a return? This is by way of being an open letter to the PR person who recently rang me enquiring (a) “Did you enjoy your recent press trip to (let’s say) Ulan Bator?” And (b) “When are you going to use it?” By which ...
BLOGThis week’s decent drinking Ask any wine buff what the name Henschke means to them and it’s odds on that they’ll come up with the words “Hill of Grace”. This top dollar shiraz is truly an Australian icon, one of the few that gets mentioned in the same breath as Penfold’s Grange. ‘Hill of Grace’ ...
Tasting Notes, Wine & DrinkGentle reader, indulge me. I’d like to dedicate this review to one Graham Proctor, my oldest and best mate, now deservedly putting his feet up after a lifetime spent in teaching and politics, including a stint as Lord Mayor of Chester. During a period when my life was about as stable as a butterfly on ...
Restaurant Reviews