Archive for Food

Interview: Richard Corrigan

March 20, 2003 No Comments

At first hearing, ‘the Richard Corrigan story’ sounds like a Celtic version of The American Dream; the young lad from the poor bogland farm who, through talent and diligence, graduated to win not only the acclaim of notoriously hard-to-please food critics, but the coveted accolade of two Michelin stars. A choir and orchestra hymn John ...

Tags: Food

Entente Curryale

March 19, 2003 No Comments

5th April Damn Frank Hederman! Went up to Temple Bar market, bought heaps and heaps but alas Frank didn’t quite put the lid on his smoked mussel tub so I now have smoked mussel carrots, smoked mussel sausages, smoked mussel goat cheese, smoked mussel rucsac and smoked mussel digital camera! Still he did give me ...

Tags: , Food

Giving It Rice

March 13, 2003 No Comments

Twenty years ago if you offered the ma and da a nice bowl of rice when they came round to Sunday tea they’d be as astonished, nay, dismayed as if you’d quit your religion. How times have changed. Today’s parents drag their toddlers kicking and screaming to the Chinese or the curry shop soon as ...

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So you wannabe a restaurant reviewer???

March 13, 2003 No Comments

Got to be the best job in the world? People actually pay you to go out and eat and drink, lucky beggar! But before you fill in the application form, consider… You arrive at the restaurant on time and spend twenty frustrating minutes in reception while they find you a table. This means the restaurant ...

Food

Culinary Terms Explained Part 1

March 5, 2003 No Comments

EVER READ A WORD IN A RECIPE INSTRUCTION AND NOT KNOWN WHAT IT MEANT? RELAX, HERE’S THE LOWDOWN aioli The garlic-flavoured mayonnaise known as the ‘butter of Provence’ which is an essential accompaniment to many of the fish and vegetable dishes from that region. a l’anglaise Vegetables, meat and fish prepared in a plain, straightforward ...

Food

Culinary Terms Explained Part 2

March 5, 2003 No Comments

minestrone A substantial Italian vegetable soup. Again, a word debased by menu writers – we’ve even seen ‘minestrone of white, light and dark chocolate’, a total nonsense. mignonette pepper Very coarsely ground black pepper used in dishes such as steak au poivre. The simplest way to achieve the correct texture is to loosen the nut ...

Food

Onion Soup

February 26, 2003 No Comments

Once upon a time I owned a café. I bought a going – well, limping – business in a street where swanky Dublin 2 glares at iffy Dublin 1, separated only by the murky Liffey and by differing aspirations. The connecting bridge is named after a religious fanatic who enjoyed the peculiar hobby of hanging ...

Food
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RECIPE: LOBSTER PIROGUE

Another tasty recipe for  lobster. A ‘pirogue’ (pee-roag) is a Louisiana term for the wooden canoe used for fishing...

SOPHISTICATED SPUDS MY A….

Journalists, like politicians work on the theory that if you say something, preferably loud or long, people will believe...

Mermaid and Gruel gone?

Just had tweets from a fairly kosher souce to indicate that these two seminal eating houses have ceased to...

BOOK REVIEW – Inside the Italian Kitchen

I really like this book, a collaboration between chef Marco Roccasalvo of  the restaurant Capo de’Fiori in Bray and...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – China-Sichuan

The China-Sichuan is unique among Dublin restaurants. Firstly, for its uncompromising culinary credo. Secondly, for the clean-cut way in...

WINE TRIP TO LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

On my travels again. This time in Languedoc-Roussillon, following in the footsteps of Louis XIII by staying in an...

WHAT THIS PLACE REALLY NEEDS IS A NICE COALMINE

One of my normal occupations at this time of year is to draw up a list of wine heroes...

LOBSTER and LEEK RISOTTO

LOBSTER AND LEEK RISOTTO Preparing the beasts is not rocket science. Cut off the claws, as near to the...

ON TEST: Lidl frozen (cooked) Canadian lobster

THE WORLD’S YOUR LOBSTER Fantastic price, but is a fantastic bargain? Lobster at Lidl, €4.99 for a specimen that...

RESTAURANT REVIEW – Olivier’s at The Schoolhouse

Were I to make a list of the qualities I demand from my ‘dining companion’ it would be a...