China Sichuan

Sichuan cookery, a bit of a Plain Jane by comparison with the more familiar Cantonese, takes some understanding. The former is largely based on a two-pronged assault on the tastebuds, by tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns; and pungent red chillies, dried, which makes them more potent still. In addition, there’s a definite presence of salt, soy sauce, vinegar and sugar, supported by lashings of garlic and ginger. A local white wine and a fish-fragrant condiment particular to the region also play a part.

I learned recently that many Sichuan restaurants opened up in Hong Kong in the 1950s and 60s, initially struggling because the locals were simply not used to the ‘with attitude’ style of cooking. The restaurateurs had to tone down the seasoning in order to survive. Much of the Sichuan food we see here has been similarly tamed.

In the 1960s, the phrase ‘Chinese restaurant syndrome’ was coined to describe symptoms suffered by some people after eating Chinese food away from home. A heating sensation, followed by an extreme thirst and a headache; perhaps even palpitations and chest pains. The symptoms inevitably subsided within a few hours. The finger was soon pointed at monosodium glutamate (MSG) a new wonder powder used to accentuate food’s flavours and produced from a fermentation process, using molasses or the starch from sago or tapioca.

Because it was very expensive, MSG or ‘taste powder’ was used sparingly. Eventually large scale production in both China and Japan made it universally affordable and Chinese chefs, using MSG almost as a substitute for stock, poured indiscriminate amounts into sauces and soups. They have since backed off and amounts used are now minimal. Some even use none at all. In Ireland, the most notable of these is the China Sichuan, long-established in Stillorgan, with a strong following of loyal customers.

Recently, the restaurant has upped sticks, moving to a new location at in the Sandyford Trading Estate. The proprietor, told me why. “We were due a rent increase and got wind that it was going to be substantial. Besides, we needed to progress. The challenge has been good for us.” At first the move caused difficulties. The menu had been revamped and old customers were disappointed that certain old favourites had been discarded. “They are coming round now, though,” said Kevin, “and it isn’t that far away from where we started off.” Indeed it’s not, though the location seems strange. Remote from shops, pubs, people, it’s quite charmless until you get though the restaurant door; although I did appreciate being able to park right outside and others will cherish the fact that it’s only a couple of hundred yards from the Luas line.

Gadabout, Sibella’s sister, was the perfect companion for the outing. Her tastes lean towards the light and delicate, complimenting mine which tend towards rich and gutsy. A great cook, she also has an appreciation of catering’s big picture, from ingredients to presentation, ambience to service.
As I was driving we limited ourselves to wine by the glass and I was pleased to spot the Alsace Meyer-Fonne Tokai Pinot Gris, over which I’ve turned handsprings in the Sunday Indo. It made the perfect curtain-raiser and accompanied the starters, spring rolls and prawn-filled steamed dumplings immaculately.

We took two main courses in contrasting styles. The duck, roasted over camphor wood is typical of the region and a particular favourite of mine. It involves four processes: marinating, smoking, steaming and deep-frying. Moist, crisp and aromatic and needing no accompaniments other than rice, it was superb. The other dish was undoubtedly less regional, as Sichuan is a land-locked province with scant access to sea fish. For me fish, simply steamed or baked with ginger and scallions is one of the world’s great dishes, particularly if that fish is black sole. “Bring it on”, I enthused when Travelling Lady put the order in.

It was exceptionally well done. A meaty, succulent black sole, carefully filleted by one of the best waiters I’ve encountered in many a night out, was ringed with piquant ginger and crunchy scallions in a delicate sauce involving (I think) Chinese wine, light soy sauce and maybe a touch of star anis.

I may have said this before but I’m not as big a fan of the notion of wine and food matching as some of my contemporaries. My own view is that there are roughly 5 per cent of matches made in heaven, another 5 per cent made in hell with the other 90 per cent somewhere in between. We chose two glasses of a mellow red Burgundy from an unfashionable region and fish and wine bonded admirably.

We shared dessert, a traditional selection of small cakes, including a custard tart. We wouldn’t rave. On the whole, TL and I were impressed with the new China Sichuan. Service, glassware, cutlery, crockery were impeccable. We liked the new menu, which gives the chefs some scope for individuality. The wine list is interesting and balanced. The décor is contemporary, though a trifle bland. We spent €123, ex service, which some may think expensive. If so, let me make this point. Off a Dublin fishmonger’s slab, a black sole of the size we ate would probably set you back €15-18. At Bentley’s, black sole is listed at €46. Ours, perfectly cooked, garnished and served, cost €29.50. I rest my case.

China Sichuan The Forum, Ballymoss Road, Sandyford Industrial Estate, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 1 2935100.
The Damage: €123, ex-service for 2 starters, 2 mains, 1 dessert, 1 coffee, 4 glasses decent wine

Quality: ****

Service: ****

Ambience: ***1/2

Value: ****

Overall: ****