London Calling

[dallen]

Was in London about a month ago, made it to Richard Corrigans new place and St. Johns (Smithfield). I go to St. Johns everytime I go to London, so i'm absolutely sold. Had bone marrow to start, chitterlings and dandelions for main and lancashire cheese and eccles cake for dessert. Obviously it was all excellent, I really love the unpredictability of the menu, even though what I had on that night are signature dishes there, St. John bread and wine (Spittalfields) is also excellent (standout dishes; cockscomb and bacon, roast teal, truly beautiful).

Corrigans new resturant in Mayfair is an odd sort of place, he comes across as sort of anti-establishment in his words and books (never one for organised shoots, landed gentry etc, etc, etc.) but the place has a private old mens club feel to it. Apart from that the cooking was excellent and there was a nice mix of people dining there. I had smoked eel and scallion risotto (beautiful, with an excellent depth of flavour), steamed steak and kidney suet pudding and rubarb souffle.

Also, for middle of the day peckishness, you can't beat
Fernandez & Wells in Soho. A bit expensive for a sandwich, but they're delicious.

Next time I really want to try La Gavroche, has anyone been and what's the damage going to be like.

[meatmonger]

just chatting to a friend that was in marco pierre whites in london at the weekend.
Superb Meal, Saturday Night but only 20 people in the restaurant!

[burkean]

About a month ago, I went to L'Atelier du Joel Robuchon in Soho for a family meal. 3 of us went for their lunch time menu (as ever, there was an offer on Toptable) and it was prefectly pleasant.

http://www.joel-robuchon.com/ - jump to the London section of the site.

I had a brocoli soup with a little black olive foam to start (the other 2 had the salmon rillettes pate). For main I had rabbit and agen prunes (very tasty) and then for desert we had a selection of tarts. This was the standout dish - a series of cinnamon, lemon, strawberry, vanilla and chocolate tarts - all minature slices, but really well made. There was a bit of gold leaf on one - pointless in terms of flavour, but a luxurious touch. With aperitifs and decent bottle of Burgandy, I think it came to about £170.

The restaurant itself is set up in a Japanese style - there's an open-ish kitchen with a bar that you can sit around or there are a selection of high tables. Inside there's a fantastic wall of planting that features a retractable glass panel - so the darkness of the deep reds and blacks are contrasted by the naturally lit green.

It's all very pleasant - but not overwhelming. It's just - nice. And I admit that I'm a bit of a neat freak (I dust my skirting boards every week and my shirts all face the one way when I hang them up) but there was a lot of dust floating around in places. If you're going for the pristine, cool, minimalist style - it needs to be spotless. Grime shows up quicker when it has nowhere to hide.

Now... all this leads to a point. When L'Atelier opened, it did so to great fanfare, it was a great shopwing by a renowned chef and fittingly, was adorned with its first Michelin star this year. Now we all that Michelin favour French-themed restaurants, that many places get undeserving recognition and that others are overlooked - often inexplicably.

However, another meal this weekend has shocked me with how much variance there can be within the supposed standards of Michelin ranking.

Tristan Welch opened Launceston Place about a year ago, having moved out from under Marcus Wareing. So for our birthdays, Ms. Burkean and I opted to go for the tasting menu. Launceston Place has just received its first star too - but Bby Christ there was some difference on show here. This in a completely different league to L'Atelier.

Now - it was blow-out mode (for our budgets at least), and so we started with a beautiful English sparkling rose. I try English wines quite regularly and frequnetly find myself wanting to like them more than I do. Not so this - it was smooth, flavoursome and absolutely delicious. A portion of their own crisps accompanied - sculpted to have a little hole at the top, through which they were tied together by a ribbon. It looked cool. Nice crisps too.

Whilst having a drink, we looked over the menu, exceptionally friendly and professional staff each came and introduced themselves - the standout person being the Sommelier. Once at our table, we started on the pairing wines once we'd had our cucumber sorbet and cucumber slivers... a technically perfect amouse bouche.

I can't remember all the wines, so I'll spare you those details... but the courses then ran as follows:

Spinach and ricotta ravioli, artichokes, truffles and sage butter - spinach and ricotta are ingredients that frequently excite you until you taste them and realise how bland they can be - not so this time, really earthy, creamy and fresh flavours all combined for a great start. Only downside was that the artichokes were tough on the outside and impossible to chew - but I only made that mistake on the first mouthful... and that was to be the only qualm for the rest of the meal.

Next, a single juice and plump roast scallop that came in the shell, toppped with delicious little wild flowers and herbs. Simple and a good exposition of how nice a shell fish scallops can be when not fussed around with.

Then we had champagne poached salmon, a warm summer vegetable salad and champagne foam. For once, the foam added something - providing a nice foil to the richness of the salmon and the vegetables were delicately, but pleasingly salted - making it an incredibly fresh, but still satisfyingly flavoursome dish.

The a palatte cleanser of celery sorbet, apples and a savoury walnut mouse. More substantial than it sounds and the walnuts providing a superb earthiness that the sorbet cut through.

The main event was a choice, Ms. Burkean had tamworth suckling pig with a honey emulsion and radishes. The pig was good - but the crackling was divine. Meaty, smokey, salty... magnificent. I stole as much as I could. I had roast best end of lamb, with a samphire and red chard salad. How do you describe some of the nicest lamb you've ever tasted...? I don't know, but this was incredible - and prefectly rare. The samphire was a great idea - and still retained that immensely satisfying crunch. The hint of sweetness in the chard worked well too.

Then - a mini banoffi pie as a pre-desert. Fantastic toffee.

And finally - a flourish of rice pudding soufle with raspberry ripple ice-cream. The creaminess of the ice-cream was something to behold and the zing of raspberry just did enough to balance out how sweet the souffle was. Yes, the souffle was flawless.

With coffee, we were served a tiny chocolate brownie with crystals of Maldon salt on top) I was probably the only person young enough to get the South Park, Chef's "chocolate salty balls" joke.

Upon leaving, we were given a little box of chocolates to share at home.

Damage - not insubstantial - £263. But that's eight courses, 6 generous glasses of wine, coffee and service. Moreover, upon rolling out the door, we felt happy to have paid the money for such a magnificent meal.

The restaurant itself is beautifully designed with a rich grey theme (I know that sounds like an oxymoron, but you'll have to trust me- it works), immaculate toilets and once again I'd emphasize - exceptional staff.

The gulf in quality between L'Atelier and Launceston Place is hard to describe. I know we did a blow out at the latter, but at no point in 3 courses di L'Atelier even hint at the cooking on show throughout each of the courses on Sat night. If Launceston Place is Michelin 1 star standard, then Joel Robuchon just isn't at the races at all.

But then, the Michelin rankings aside, this just once again shows the quality of what's on offer in London. And I can't reccomend Tristan Welch's outfit enough.

Next month, it's a week's hiking in the Lake District and a return journey to London via Sat Bains...

UPDATE: Sorry I was mistaken. L'Atelier is actually a two star. Which is even more of a p**s take than I originally thought...

[unclepat]

Just back from a couple of days in London and as ever we ate really well and found great value for money in most places.
Highlights this time were another stunningly simple lunch in Hereford Road. Deep fried calves brains with tartar sauce for me followed by grilled lemon sole with caper butter. My better half had skate cheeks followed by a grilled piece of plaice about an inch thick simply served with fried cauliflower. There is no where to hide with dishes this pared back and if the ingredients and execution are not absolutely spot on, it will fail miserably. Thankfully the ingredients here are second to none and the cooking is just right so every morsel was superb.
We hopped on a train out of London on Saturday to Faversham on the Kent coast. A short cab ride later we are at The Sportsman Pub in Seasalter.(www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk)
We've read a lot about this place and having won a Michelin Star earlier this year, it has become a bit of a foodie pilgrimage destination. It is not much to look at and is in the middle of nowhere but the food is definitely worth the journey. Menu and wine list are on a blackboard and the whole place has a very informal yet friendly atmosphere.
Home made sough dough and focaccia served with their own butter and salt were so tasty and moreish we could have stuffed our selves happily for the whole day on them!
One of their signature dishes is a crab risotto and it's not hard to see why people rave about it. Made using a strong crab stock and brown meat It has the most intense crab flavour either of have ever tasted. The source every ingredient they use within a stones throw of the pub and it's no surprise that fish features heavily. Roast thornback ray with cockles was spanking fresh and full of flavour. My poached turbot was more subtle but really meaty and very tasty. We didn't leave room for dessert but after seeing the chocolate tart going to the next table we order one between us. It had very short crisp pastry and a deep filling of dense yet silky bitter sweet chocolate with texture between gnache and mousse. It was one of those silent moments in a meal when you've both just tasted one of the best things you've ever eaten but no words are needed!
The weather was great so we had a nice walk along the beach before heading back to the train station. It's about an hour and 10 minutes on the train from Victoria to Faversham and about 10 minutes by cab. Well worth the journey for a pub lunch with a difference.

[mreeyore]

Another food weekend in London where I visited places mainly mentioned before in the thread. Leaving it a bit late to make bookings, I couldn't get back to Hibiscus for an intended Christmas blowout dinner and for the third time this year couldn't get a lunch booking in Murano - seems like they're doing well to be booked out for Saturday lunches all year round. So I took the opportunity to check out L'Autre Pied, Launceston Place and the Blueprint Cafe which were all new to me.

burkean has already given a great detailed description of Launceston place above so all I'll add is that my visit didn't match it. Painfully slow service, lack of attention and a couple of poor dishes marred an otherwise great tasting menu. Foodwise it was mainly great and as described above but a long wait in between courses on a tasting menu is never good when the pacing is probably more important than ever. If I lived nearby I'd give it another go but on my experience wouldn't recommend it in a hurry.

L'Autre Pied on the other hand lived up to everything I'd heard. Expecting it to be similar to Arbutus and Wild Honey both of which I like a lot, it turned out to be a definite notch above both, refined bistro cooking with superior service. I can still taste the partridge lasagne with ragout of mousserons and I've already planned my next Sunday lunch there.

Blueprint cafe has been on my list of places to visit for a long time being a fan of Jeremy Lee's attitude to food and hearing that this place was basically doing the high-end bistro thing for the past 10 years. Although my food - crubeens to start and a plate of ox tongue was good, it wasn't at the level I expected and lunch here is pricey compared to the value on offer around London. Possibly a symptom of it's location - It's got the best views in London.

Lastly and in a rather different vein, i made a return visit to Wahaca, Thomasina Miers mexican market style venue. Noticing they've now expanded to three venues, I wonder is it something that may make it here in future, not that I'm a fan of chains. I confess to knowing nothing about mexican market food but I like it, very buzzy, good cocktails and most importantly very tasty food served informally, it takes the better aspects of wagamamas (the quick service and informality) and leaves out the rubbish parts (ie the bland tasteless noodles and the communal seating). Also, you can still get in and eat so long as you're there before 11pm so handy if you're at a long play as London similarly to Dublin can be difficult to track down decent food in late at night.

[burkean]

mreeyore - Sorry to hear that Launceston Place didn't live up to your expectations. I had heard some mention of a similar experience in the press recently but as my post suggests - I really enjoyed it. Pacing can be a tricky thing in tasting menus - I really liked the relatviely relaxed pacing in Launceston Place. When we ate a Sat Bains, I felt rushed and we were racing to finish the paired wines for each course. I hate that rushed feeling when I'm spending that much money - a blowout to me ought to last a few lesiurely hours but obviously others may differ.

Christmas meal with Ms. Burkean was at Corrigan's of Mayfair. Excellent meal. Began with oysters and chamagne. She had veal tounge to start, I had pressed duck livers with a sloe berry jelly and spice pears. For mains, she had butter poached pheasant and I had the slow cook fore-rib of veal and sweetbreads that also had a sweet-onion puree. It was plated up with great pomp at my table by the head-waiter. Seriously, seriously filling but delicious.

We had a bottle of reasonably priced by satisfying Corbieres and two ports to finish off (no room for desert and I don't have a small appetite). All in all a very enjoyable meal.

Service was excellent - we were greeted warmly and the atmosphere retains and old-school charm (the white jacketed waiters and beautiful silverwear make for a nice touch). There was the odd Mayfair poser knocking around but also a reassuring amount of young-ish couples like us there to enjoy a special meal. Plenty of families there too and a few elderly chaps who were nurturing a waistline that comes with being a regular.

My only quibble was with the strange music policy towards the end... As we were finishing, they turned up some sort of bland, electro-house, shape-throwing crap that sounds more suited to being piped through the toilets in Whisky Mist. I wasn't irritated by it really (I hear that stuff in clubs in London all the time so I can filter it out pretty easily). Mentioning it to one of the staff as we picked up our coats we were met with a slightly condascending "Oh but Richard really likes it... he thinks it draws people towards the bar area to be more sociable at the end of the night". Hmmmm... I can almost understand the logic in that given the location, but I can't see how it fits with the old-world charm that oozes from every other pore of the restaurant. I'm not being stuffy, it doesn't need to be Stravinsky, but this seemed all wrong to me. Me... I'd prefer no music in any case. That's what bars are for.

[mreeyore]

burkean, I'd be in complete agreement with you regarding a tasting menu lasting a leisurely few hours, especially if you go for the matching wines though I've sworn off going for the wines aswell as I just find it to be too much wine however this was really erratic pacing, a 45 minute delay after one course ! And did I mention the maldon salt brownie never appeared, I still haven't gotten over it.

Unable to resist cheap flights to london, I'm off to Murano and back to L'autre Pied this weekend. Just so long as the flight actually takes off this weekend. Will report back on Murano.

[burkean]

Went (on a whim) to St John's Bread and Wine in Spitalfields last night. Was there with a friend and we were nosing round the chains like Canteen and Leon and what not when we realised that St John's was probably the same price.

So we had to share:
Middle White Faggot with Turnip Puree
Salt Beef with pickles
Skate, Fennel and Capers &
Jerusalem Artichoke, Rocket and Caramelised Onion Salad.

Loads of bread (gorgeous) if we wanted it and with one glass of wine (I'm sworn off the booze for Jan. so I abstained), the bill came to £30!!!

Awesome...

[europhile]

What is Middle White Faggot?

I'm in work and am scared to google it.

[unclepat]

Middlewhite is a rare breed pig and faggot is a bit like haggis only not as white pudding like

[europhile]

Thanks, Pat. Saved me the wrath of the internet police in this place.

[markh]

Originally Posted by europhile

what is middle white faggot?

I'm in work and am scared to google it.

:d:d:d:d:d:d

[chefsmith]

I actually LOL'd

[pinch]

Am heading to london tomorrow, dinner in Colette's which is in the grove in hertfordshire.
Lunch on weds in Hibiscus and dinner in Marcus Waering on weds evening. A tasty few days ahead

[chefsmith]

Heading to London myself tom for a 24 hour feast fest, maybe see ya about pinch

[meatmonger]

All this chat I just booked a couple of 30 quid flights myself.

[mreeyore]

Just hope all your flights take off unlike mine at the weekend ! So yet another attempted visit to Murano foiled. Now I've rescheduled the flights but can't get a booking

[pinch]

colettes in the grove was outstanding, service was a little bit iffy, food was amazing.

hibiscus was a bit dissapointing, food was ok, service was a bit shocking really, sommelier and manager mixing things up, nobody explaining dishes as they were put down and there is a lot going on on claude's plates.

marcus wareing was outstanding, perfection from start to finish.

i hope colette's get a star next week. and on yesterdays performance we thought marcus's was the better 2 star and it would defo pushing for 3 stars next week. i'll be keeping an eye on that for sure....

and now its fish and chip time in sidcup with my sister... good end to a great few days.

[pinch]

and when in colettes i was speaking to the new restaurant manager, it was his first day...... he used to work in hibiscus

[chefsmith]

Went to harwood arms in fulham, awesome. Shared a good rangeof dishes, cracking food, great service although it's time out gastropub of the year I would put it in restaurant territory, and only a step away from a Michelin star too if they wanted it.


Coach and horses in farringdon, good but not great food made up for with friendly service and we stayed boozing with the owner talking shop till late.

Stayed in the kensington hotel ( ex jurys) Irish owned, Irish manager and a lovelyspot to lay your head.

Flight was cancelled last minute cos of the snow, so .........

We done another days eating,
the Ledbury for lunch, coincidently owned by same guy as harwood arms, Brett graham, service here was cream of the crop, lovely hostess, great owner Brett who sat with us for a while and returned from the kitchen with some presents to take back to Vienna and a best of luck note, couple of sneaky pints with the restsurant manager after in the boozer up the road gave great insight to this place who may get their 2nd star a boozy afternoon in notting hill we found a pub called prince bonapart and set up shop eatin oysters and tasting ales, I will return here for food as menu read well and chefs looked like they liked cooking,
trekked accross to st john in smithfield, was shite, but it may have been that we were kind of full and were served by terrible bar staff and waiters and food was dissapointing but I would give it another shot as I'm the first not to love it.

London is serving great great food, served by proud informative staff and is full of owners and chefs more than happy to join you for a scoop or two, shoot the breeze and talk shop.

Best starter : harwood, snails, bonemarrow, oxtail and chive crust
main : Ledbury , brill, baby shrimp, mash and mushroom
dessert : Ledbury , banana tart with peanut icecream

oh did I mention the pork scratchings and Cornish pasties between sittings