Les Gourmandises

So that’s alright then. Dining this out this month has taken on a French flavour what with ending my feud with L’Gueuleton – a coup de grace of diplomacy though I say it myself. I did my bit by sneaking in for a late lunch and downing a plateful of blanquette d’agneau with lip-smacking relish that let everyone in the restaurant know just how good I thought the food was. The manager came over and said “Sorry!” for giving me the brusque bum’s rush last time, I went outside to smoke a Disque Bleu, humming La Marselleise between puffs, honour satisfied. I still wish they’d take bookings though.
Then a fine repast at La Marine at Kelly’s of Rosslare with the engaging Yves Cuilleron, washed down with some of his superb Northern Rhône wines.
Next on to Bordeaux to eat modern French chez Bruno Oliver’s Café Gourmand. Even the locals say that Bordeaux can’t hold a candle to Lyon when it comes to gastronomy but Bruno’s signature seared tuna “comme sushi” would be hard to beat. Thence to the venerable Le Lion d’Or in Arcins, down the road from Chateau Margaux for some local charcuterie specialities and a fine plump pigeon cooked “rose”. Tough life, eh?
Sandwiched in the middle of this bacchanale came a gastro trip to the grandiosely-titled European Capital of Culture. I was looking for my passport when I found out it was Cork (only kidding). I had an enjoyable two days: Cafe Paradiso with Busy Lizzie; tapas at Boqueria, which I loved. We need many more such places, ideally spread at 20k intervals around Ireland.
Strolling down Oliver Plunkett Street I pondered the problem of where to have lunch on the second day – pub grub? The full Montenotte? A high class ‘grab-it-and-go’ from the English market. Then I remembered Les Gourmandises, just round the corner in Cook Street. Pat and Soizic Keilly, lovely couple, when I last visted they’d just opened and were limping along, fingers crossed, in the manner of most start-up businesses, waiting, hoping for The Big Break. Would they be around, would they be open? My luck was in; Les Gourmandises only offers lunch on two days a week and this was one of them. I pushed my way through the rather elegant stained glass doors bearing the name of the previous incumbent and was warmly greeted.
The room is spacious, slightly sparse, stylistically an ancient Bewley’s with a soupcon of Gallic flair.
A huge, sunny painting adorned the far wall.
I kicked off with a glass of Blanquette de Limoux and some complementary nibbles while I perused the menu. It was French in conception. This is not surprising, Pat (a Corkman born and bred) and Soizic, prior to coming back to Ireland six years ago worked for Michel Roux, Marco Pierre White and at famed Hambleton. That’s 12 Michelin stars between the lot and when you add in Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud where Pat worked as a Sous Chef and Soizic as Head Sommelier that makes 14. Afterwards the couple ran Kish restaurant in Dalkey about which they are commendably reticent but, knowing a little of the background, I’d say they’ve had more enjoyable stints.
Les Gourmandises was their very first own venture and I’m pleased to say a couple of years down the line they are looking hale and relaxed, the graph is obviously heading the right way and I’m so pleased for them. This is why…
Service is impeccable. Efficient, courteous, to the right degree, off-formal. Enquiries of a technical nature concerning the food or the wine are handled informatively. The pacing of three courses is perfect. This is where the Michelin caper really pays off, of course – you get properly trained people, not students doing shifts or ignoramouses who can’t tell their confit from their chiffonade. Remember this the next time you walk in Guilbaud’s and suffer a sharp intake of breath when you glimpse the prices on the bill of fare. Anyhow, take a bow, Soizic.
Next, the wine list. All French, everything carefully selected. Prices range realistically between 22 and 33 euro. A few old favourites of mine – the ‘Montmirail’ Gigondas, a few nice surprises. E5 buys you a glass of very decent Cabernet from the Bouche de Rhones. All-in-all, a joy to peruse.
Now it’s Pat’s turn for the plaudits. The lunch menu is tres simple – e21 for 3 courses, too, about e10 less than you’d pay in Dublin for the same quality. Friends of mine were enjoying this at the next table and I must say it looked delightful and exceptional value so I forsook my normal attack on the a la carte. I started with a ‘Les Gourmandises tasting plate’. This comprised a vegetable terrine,a good one – I’ve eaten some shockers (Michel Guerard who invented the genre has a lot to answer for); a quenelle of creme de foie gras; decent charcuterie (local, perhaps?); and, for me, the tour de force, a demi tasse of lentil and bacon soup with toasted almonds to add crunch and character.
I could have been tempted to the ‘Pan fired’ fillet of John Dory with wild mushrooms,
parsley, grain mustard beurre blanc. But the carnivore in my soul arose (it was a filthy, cold rainy day anyhow) so I took the braised pork belly with rosemary, ginger & onion marmalade. Now I’ve had a variant on this theme in three of Dublin’s landmark restaurants and I have to say that Pat’s was better than any of them, a combination, I’m certain, of his own assured hyper-competence at ‘le piano’, the provenance of the pig involved and the legendary butchery skills of the men from Marlborough Street.
I completed my gastronomic interlude with an almond milk creme brulee with almond financier and poached apricot, imaginatively conceived, imaculately presented; and an espresso that rated 8 beans out of 10 on the Ernie Scale.
I love Les Gourmandises. I’d implore anyone who hasn’t been to get there. I believe it’s up in the very top rank of Irish restaurants. What’s more it’s a link with ‘the origin of the species’ – sound cheffing and regard for top qual ingredients, connected as if by an invisible thread to Guillaume Le Brun, Michel Roux, Bruno Oliver and the delightful Chaplinesque chef patron from the rustic Lion d’Or. The sort of debt to the French we couldn’t repay if we allowed their rugby team to zap our Grand Slam pretensions for the next 20 years.
Les Gourmandises, 17 Cook Street, Cork Tel: (021) 425 1959 Mon-Sat dinner 6-10 Open Friday for lunch.