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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Asador

  Last week occasioned a reunion with a long-term buddy, Noel’s Nephew. In the way-back-when, we both fancied ourselves singer-songwriters, barking our wares in the public bar of a noisy Dublin 2 boozer of a Tuesday night to a largely indifferent clientele who regarded our presence as an intrusion on their TV sport-gazing. We were

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Jamie’s Italian

Ten things you might not know about Jamie Oliver. One, his parents ran a pub, called ‘The Cricketers’ in Clavering, the Foxrock of Essex. Two, Essex Man’s first job was as a pastry chef, working in Antonio Carluccio’s eponymous restaurant in Covent Garden. Three – Jamie got talent spotted by The Beeb during a cameo

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Locks Brasserie

I was away in Barcelona attending a food and drink symposium and so missed the ‘handbags at dawn’ kerfuffle between Sebastian Masi, owner of Locks Brasserie and the Mail’s man, Tom Doorley, on Marian Finucane’s radio programme. Although I gather there was a broader agenda than simply one bad review, does this spat, I wondered,

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Aniar

  “What exactly is ‘foraging’?” demanded Rixi. The question arose out of my attempt to describe the ethos of Aniar, a Galway restaurant I’d heard much about but never, until now, visited. “Foraging means searching for food resources. I’m not talking about trawling Dublin supermarkets for Doppio Zero flour, or scrumping apples from neighbours’ gardens.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Ananda

My chum Bangles had a word for it. “The attention to detail throughout this meal,” she said, “is positively forensic”. This as we stared spellbound by a juxtaposition of geometric shapes and swirls in rich colours and gradations on a white ground. Art on a platter, my immediate thought was it could have been painted

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Alexis

American business psychologist Warren G. Bennis, described by Forbes magazine as ‘the king of leadership gurus’  is on record for saying “People who cannot invent and reinvent themselves must be content with borrowed postures, secondhand ideas, fitting in instead of standing out.” An adage that should be learned and committed to heart by restaurateurs, too

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Lee Kee

My first encounter with Chinese food was in Manchester way back in the last century.  I was doing evening classes, I forget the subject. During a break-time conversation it emerged that Johnson, one of the guys in the class, was the proprietor of a Chinese restaurant. Furthermore, he kindly issued an open invitation to a

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Rustic Stone revisited

  The year 1947 became a culinary landmark when the first Betty Crocker cake mix hit America’s shelves. This novelty empowered the housewife to create a fresh, ‘home-made’ (as in ‘made at home’) cake with the absolute minimum of time and effort. The concept initially backfired because home cooks felt compelled to return to the

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – Kinara Kitchen

Here I am again, back on the Cote de Ranelagh for the third time in six weeks. I make no apologies, it’s where much of the new restaurant activity has occurred during the last twelvemonth. This time Bangles and I were at the Kinara Kitchen, sister ship to the admirable Kinara in Clontarf where I’ve

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RESTAURANT REVIEW – M&L/The Imperial/The Good World

This week has been Chinese all the way, kicking off with a trip to M&L, a down-home unpretentious restaurant catering primarily for Dublin’s Chinese inhabitants, who now number close on 60,000. Latterly, the tastiness of the food and the reasonable prices, coupled with portions bordering on the humongous, have attracted an Occidental clientele. A couple

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