Home // Archive by category "Restaurant Reviews" (Page 11)

Ouzo’s,

AwopBopAlooBopAlopBamBoom! In this seminal chronicle of the rock and pop phenomenona, Nik Cohn observed that in the first year of any given decade the music is always crap. Personally, after Rue Morgue 1960 and ghastly ’70, I didn’t think 1990 was that bad. Merely dull. I always think of it as the year Middle Of

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La Dolce Vita

La Dolce Vita is a cult film, made in 1960 by Italian maestro Federico Fellini. At a superficial level you could call the movie a remake of Roman Holiday but it’s much more than that. Fellini skilfully weaves a commentary on the life and times of a Europe emerging from post-war austerity and plunging headlong

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Dax Wine Bar

Sorry if I’m going off on a rant, but I really wanted to eat in a particular restaurant, was pitilessly denied the opportunity and, choking on bile, need to unburden myself. In Dublin’s unfair city, smugness abounds. Hardly surprising in a milieu where pampered luvvies constantly convey the impression to the rest of us that

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Thai House

Louden Wainwright III wrote a good song about dining out on your own, called ‘I Eat Out’, in which the Mister Sad Person of the lyrics instructs the waiters “Never mind the menu, take away the candle, forget about the aperitif”; getting to the nub of the matter in noting that people who dine in

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Darwin’s

What’s in a name? My own personal belief is ‘Not a lot’. Many of the world’s ‘must buy’ brands are mundane names reduced to strings of initials – International Business Machines, Bayerische Motoren Werke etc. Others are merely the founder’s surname set in giant type on a factory wall – Hoover, Dyson, Ford, Armani. Would

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Rasam

Funny thing ‘atmosphere’. I’m not into it much; when it comes to dining out I’ll take ‘food’ every time – give me my beef rare, my salmon wild, my pasta al dente and I’ll give a place the thumbs up though the ambience is working overtime to mimic a funeral parlour on a foggy February

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Roly’s Bistro

My predecessors in the editorial hot seat established a rule whereby we gave a new restaurant a chance to bed down before we reviewed. I’ve modified this policy somewhat. I don’t see why restaurants should be allowed to rehearse at the diner’s expense – if things aren’t at least 90% perfect from Day One they

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Oriel

So that there’s no doubt at the outset let’s just say that Oriel of Gilford is Ireland’s latest Michelin starred restaurant which Lizzie Meagher and I reviewed in the April 2002 issue of FOOD & WINE Magazine. Although we drove up and dined together and, obviously aired our thoughts on the long drive back home,

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Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud

Minerva demanded “This Michelin thing. What do you get?” I took a deep breath and ventured “The package. The works. A theatrical experience. Art, drama, imagination, creativity and panache. Expensive ingredients, lovingly, time-consumingly prepared. Plus a cast of thousands attending to your every whim before you know you’ve got one…” “And is it worth the

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Chai Yo

Where did all the Fun go? We (and in that roll call I include critics, restaurateurs, chefs and punters) have all got so damned serious about our food and wine that there are no laughs to be had any more. Until this week I couldn’t recall the last time I came back from having dinner

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