Speech For Food & Wine Magazine / evian Restaurant Of The Year Awards

t’s not often I get asked to make a speech but next time I’d like a little more than an hour’s notice! Still, all’s well that end’s well – no one threw their scallops and black tiger prawns at me (not surprised, they were delicious) and as a warm up for the Norah Casey Joe Duffy Spectacular it was fine.

“Those of you who were under the impression that either John Brennan, John Healy or Tony Costa were delivering this speech will be as disappointed as I am.
I have to say that, for me, giving speeches about food and wine comes a very bad third to eating and drinking it and indeed, to writing about it, both of which I do with much more fluency, especially the eating and drinking thing. The best thing I can say about having to write this speech at short notice is, it got me off putting out the place cards, which I find intellectually even more taxing.

Moet & Chandon’s Brut Imperial NV, which we enjoyed in the garden prior to lunch, is apparently a blend of the three grape varieties – I think that’s white, red and the ones you buy in Tesco – only kidding Michael, I know it’s Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It’s very much Moet and Chandon’s signature style, balanced, lively and full of finesse and deservedly one of the world’s most popular “Champagnes.

Writing a leader for the magazine back in a very wet June I promised that the good weather would arrive to coincide with publication of our “Outdoors issue.”Fortunately it did. I believe that Executive Chef Terry White’s lovely Mediterranean-styled menu was, at least in part, inspired by the spell of fantastic weather we’ve enjoyed since then.

The first course is a classic salad, buffalo mozzarella and rocket salad, with vine roasted tomatoes and a balsamic dressing. This is teamed up with Fetzer Syrah Rose 2002, which has a summer fruit character, raspberries and strawberries on both nose and palate, with hints of lavender. I love it for it’s upfront intensity.

Next we have seared West Cork scallops and black tiger shrimp, matched with vina Carmen Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2001. Some years ago I had the pleasure of interviewing the winemaker over lunch at one of our finalist’s restaurants so it seems somehow appropriate that Carmen should be on the wine list today. You should find herbaceous characters, combined with subtle citric and tropical fruit flavours and a lingering finish.

The main course, sea salt roasted loin of veal with a mushroom and mascarpone risotto is paired with Wolf Blass Presidents Selection Shiraz 2000. Wolf Blass needs no introduction, their wines always announce themselves with a fanfare – the bouquet of this Shiraz is intense and peppery, with spiced fruit and chocolate in there, leading into a well-balanced, rich and full-bodied mouthful. Enjoy!

Our cheese this afternoon is Stilton, served with walnut and raisin bread. As I’m sure some of you know, Stilton was never made in the Leicestershire village that gave the cheese its name, or anywhere near it. Stilton was merely the place where, on its journey South to the capital, the truckles were taken off one stagecoach and loaded on another. Put in an Irish context, it would be like calling Gubbeen Limerick Junction! Anyhow serving Stilton gives us a great excuse to drink port, it’s natural counterpart and what better than a Late Bottled Vintage 1997 from Sandeman with its rich aromas with intense fruit balanced by soft tannins.

If by this stage you can manage dessert – and I hope there’ll be no slackers – you will enjoy baked peach and raspberry tart enhanced by the seductive charms of Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Rose NV, with subtle but expressive aromas of redcurrant and wild strawberries given by the predominant presence of Pinot Pinot Noir – bit of a tongue-twister, that.

Our sponsors Evian have done some matching too, providing two of the world’s finest mineral waters, Evian still and Badoit sparkling, to further enhance the enjoyment of the lunch and the day.

Finally, can I just say that our thoughts should be with Tony Costa as I understand that his wife was taken to hospital this morning, the reason he can’t be with us today.

Thank you all for coming to our Awards.”