This week has been Chinese all the way, kicking off with a trip to M&L, a down-home unpretentious restaurant catering primarily for Dublin’s Chinese inhabitants, who now number close on 60,000. Latterly, the tastiness of the food and the reasonable prices, coupled with portions bordering on the humongous, have attracted an Occidental clientele. A couple
Forkncork.comErnie Whalley on food, wine & Irish restaurants |
BOOK REVIEW ‘Turkey – Recipes and Tales from the Road’ by Leanne Kitchen
I’ve been anxious to get my hands on this book for some time now and the minute I slipped ‘Turkey – Recipes and Tales from the Road’ out of its padded envelope I knew it had been worth the wait. Fair dues to Murdoch Books; considering the author, Leanne Kitchen (a trained chef turned food
BOOK REVIEW – Martin’s Fishy Fishy Cookbook by Martin Shanahan
Ah, fish, the great Irish paradox. We live on an island surrounded by fish but, by and large, we shun them unless they come battered or breadcrumbed. This is because (or so the theory goes) we were forced to eat it on Fridays we don’t really like fish and don’t eat it now we don’t
BOOK REVIEW: Loose Birds & Game by Andrew Pern
Game seems , thank God, to be making a comeback. My local Dublin butcher has, in season, venison, pheasant, partridge and mallard. Rabbit, which disappeared from the high street for years is now back in the shops with a vengeance. Yet cookery books dealing exclusively with game are few and far between. Angela Humphreys’
RESTAURANT REVIEW – The Box Tree
I got taken to task in strange fashion the other day. I was having a quiet pint in Neary’s when a guy I hadn’t seen for years hailed me. I did the “hello, haven’t seen you for ages, must do lunch” thing and sat down with him and his mate. On learning I was
Restaurant Review – McHUGH’S WINE & DINE
On Christmas Eve a US food critic who remained anonymous for 16 years has had her cover blown by a Los Angeles restaurant. Irene Virbila, who works for the Los Angeles Times, had her picture taken at the Red Medicine restaurant in Beverly Hills and was asked to leave. The restaurant then posted the picture
RESTAURANT REVIEW – Camden Kitchen
My favourite proverb – and, sorry you won’t find it in the bible – goes “blessed is he that expecteth nothing, for he shall not be disappointed”. When, years ago, a friend took me to Lindsay House in Soho, I hadn’t the least idea who the chef was. An amiable porky geezer with an Irish
BOOK REVIEW – Inside the Italian Kitchen
I really like this book, a collaboration between chef Marco Roccasalvo of the restaurant Capo de’Fiori in Bray and Anne Kennedy of greatfood.ie. who, in her introduction, says “If you think some of his recipes are too simple to be excellent, then his (Marco’s) work is done.” There’s a long and informative section on the
RESTAURANT REVIEW – China-Sichuan
The China-Sichuan is unique among Dublin restaurants. Firstly, for its uncompromising culinary credo. Secondly, for the clean-cut way in which it divides the dining out fraternity. The China-Sichuan you either love or hate, it seems. Extreme foodies, the sort who rattle their Globals on my website forum, are in the former camp. They agonised when
ON TEST: Lidl frozen (cooked) Canadian lobster
THE WORLD’S YOUR LOBSTER Fantastic price, but is a fantastic bargain? Lobster at Lidl, €4.99 for a specimen that yields 350g, enough for 2-4 persons depending upon the dish. This mean dude comes frozen, pre-cooked and, though it’s dead as the Celtic Tiger, still scary looking, even swathed in a protective block of ice. I
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