Tough Skins And Tannins

The connection between red wine drinking and health has been known for some time, although the medical profession, with its natural conservatism and caution, has not, until recently, seen fit to champion the cause of drinking wine, even in moderation.

Of course, it all started with the French.What became known as ‘The French Paradox’ was first discovered when epidemiologists tried to find reasons for the low death rate from heart disease in Mediterranean countries, especially France, despite the indulgence in rich, high fat diets. Studies revealed that the risk of heart attacks was 20 to 40 % lower among red wine drinkers. A Danish study, which tracked 10,000 citizens of Copenhagen over a ten year period showed that teetotallers run twice the risk of dying from heart disease as people who drank a moderate amount of red wine every day. Subsequent research, in the USA, where post mortems on alcoholics revealed their general heart condition to be way above average, and in the UK, has tended to back up these findings.

The scientific reasons for this phenomenon are as yet unconfirmed but it looks like a combination of mechanisms may be at work. Credit has been given to the red pigments in grape skins. These are members of a family called proanthocyanidins, powerful antioxidants forming part of a larger category of compounds called flavonols. Also, the tannins in red wine help prevent blood platelets clumping together and triggering a heart attack. It has further been found that any alcohol can raise levels of HDL, the benign form of cholesterol that also helps inhibit platelet clumping.The benefits of proanthocyanidins has been heavily researched in Europe. Scientifically documented benefits include enhanced capillary strength and vascular function, which helps the heart and decreases PMS; lessens the tendency to bruising, oedema from injury or trauma, varicose veins, leg swelling and retinopathy. Other perceived benefits include enhanced immune resistance; increased peripheral circulation; improved vision; reduced adverse allergic and inflammatory responses and even reduced skin ageing and elasticity. Nor is that the end of the good news. Findings from a study in the University of Illinois indicate that a compound commonly found in grapes may be effective in combating some types of cancer. Mice injected with resveratrol developed 98% fewer skin tumors. Red wines are apparently particularly rich in resveratrol.

Will any red wine do? Alas, no. It seems that what is required to deliver the maximum flavonols and resveratrol is a highly tannic wine, made from tough skinned grapes. So poor haemophiliac Pinot is a no-no. Maybe we’ll see a drop in the price of fine Burgundies as a result, but I somehow doubt it. Barolos and Barbarescos can be tannic to the point of unpleasantness, I usually hide them at the back of the cellar until they soften, maybe I should be hoicking them out and drinking them young. I’ve always been more than a touch dubious about the Australian predilection for blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz(Syrah). To me there seems little purpose in squeezing together the world’s two most scintillating red grape varieties – a pointless association, a bit like getting Shakespeare and James Joyce in the same pub for a head butting contest. Most Cabernet/Shiraz blends somehow aren’t blends at all. But wait a minute, maybe those clever Aussies have got it right, leather skinned Cab Sauv meets hi-tannin Shiraz – why am I getting all snotty about the World’s Greatest Health Drink?

Of course, wine bibbers in Ireland have some way to go before they build up their ‘flavs and rezzies’ to credible levels. Per capita/per annum consumption is still under 9 litres, compared to 60 litres in France. Wondering whether the public were actually aware of the health issue I decided to do some ‘vox pop’ research outside my two local wine stores. Analysing the results, it became obvious that only about one person in five had an inkling of the connection between red wine and health and less than one in ten were of the opinion that possession of such knowledge would influence their buying decision. On the other hand, a spokesperson for Searson’s of Monkstown estimated that his retail customers bought two bottle of red for every one of white. He felt that in Ireland, where wine is generally sold into a sophisticated and educated market, the consumer is well aware of the benefits of drinking red. None of the publicans I spoke to could confirm a trend towards red wine. Is there a promotional opportunity that the trade may be missing?

Unlucky teetotallers can apparently console themselves and go some way to reducing their flavonol/resveratrol deficiencies by munching peanuts and grape seeds, apples and oranges, drinking copious amounts of green tea and, best of all, sucking the resin out of pine bark. Now we know what all those multicoloured anoraks are really doing up Wicklow on Sunday afternoons.

Mind you, I know which indulgence I’d prefer if asked to choose between a glass of Ch. Haut Brion and a chunk of Christmas Tree! But hey, there could be another marketing opportunity…raise your glasses to Chateau Resveratrol-Flavonol (50% Cabernet Sauvignon /50% Retsina) smells vile, tastes vile but boy, does it do you good.